Suomenlinna always makes the list of must-see places to visit in Finland, or at least in Helsinki, and we agree it’s something to take your kids to. It’s not so much what you can do in the fortress as it’s being on the fortress itself that’s the main attraction. It offers a unique vibe for your Finland travel with kids.
Why Visit Suomenlinna With Your Kids?
We went to Suomenlinna during winter so unfortunately, a lot of the museums, cafes, and restaurants were closed. So we didn’t do much besides exploring the island and taking plenty of photos.
Admittedly, it was a tough sell. Ambie was willing to drop it from the itinerary. But I insisted (occasionally, I do win.) Kimi didn’t go so she could rest. And we just dragged Yoki along. This was at the tail-end of our 2-week Finland vacation that sandwiched a week-long Tallinn trip, so everyone was tired at this point (and sniffing really).
Here was my pitch:
1. It’s a must-see attraction in Helsinki.
Whether it’s Lonely Planet or TripAdvisor (along with other travel guides), Suomenlinna ranks among the must-visit places in Helsinki, placing first or at least among the top 10 attractions. And the reviews of visitors are overwhelmingly positive.
2. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site.
I do place a lot of credence on UNESCO’s picks of sites that are of historic and cultural importance. Called Sveaborg by the Swedes in the mid-18th century (when Finland was ruled by Sweden), the sea fortress was built to protect Helsinki from Russia.
Well, Russia eventually wrested control of Finland and called the military garrison Peter the Great’s Naval Fortress, this time to protect St. Petersburg. When Finland gained its independence in 1917, the fortress was handed over to the new government, which gave the name it has today.
(Okay, my family couldn’t care less about these details. But I did pull out the UNESCO World Heritage card.)
3. It’s 15 minutes away from the mainland.
If you have a few days in Helsinki, you might as well visit Suomenlinna since it’s just a 15-minute ferry ride away. Plus, you just need to spend a few hours there. And you can tick it off your list.
4. It’s a change of scenery.
Helsinki is a beautiful city with a mix of Neoclassical and modern architecture, historic churches and museums, expansive parks, charming trams, and city squares. But tunnels, bunkers, cannons, barracks, fortress walls, drawbridges, dry dock, and a WWII-era submarine? You can also find those in Suomenlinna.
5. It’s atmospheric in winter.
I found some moody photos of Suomenlinna in winter, and that sold it. When we were there, with the gloomy sky, gusty winds, and falling snowflakes, along with the quiet and isolation, the atmosphere was definitely eerie and gothic, you know, in a cinematic way. We loved it.
What to Do in Suomenlinna With Kids
In short, not much.
Let me start with what we didn’t do (which you can consider, especially if you have an entire day and you visit outside of winter).
1. Visit museums.
To be honest, we’re not big museum goers. It’s not that we don’t appreciate them. It’s just that with a tight travel schedule, we have to prioritize historic sites and local restaurants over museums. And we can always do our research online to learn about the history of a place.
In any case, most of the museums in Suomenlinna that we and our kids might be interested in were closed during winter. For instance: Suomenlinna Toy Museum with its collection of 19th century toys and dolls as well as the Submarine Vesikko, the aforementioned WWII sub.
2. Explore the entire island.
On paper, it seemed feasible. On foot, in freezing winter, not so. The plan was to follow the “blue route”, the 1.5-kilometer main route running through Suomenlinna to see all the important sights until we reached King’s Gate at the southern tip of the island.
Yes, we missed King’s Gate, the main gateway of the island and the iconic symbol of Suomenlinna. You see, there is a lot of walking involved. Google Maps estimated our route to take around 27 minutes on foot, one-way. And since during winter, the quay at King’s Gate is closed, we had to go back the main quay. That’s already close to an hour of just walking. Considering we take 20 to 30 minutes at each stop, we will never make it back in time.
We also missed the other sights like the Great Courtyard, Kustaanmiekka, the Dry Dock, and Bastion Zander, so we were not able to climb the cannons, explore the tunnels, check out the old sailing boats, and see the memorial of Augustin Ehrensvärd, the architect of Suomenlinna.
However, we did see the pink Jetty Barracks and the moody Suomenlinna Church.
Now, here’s what we did, which we feel made our short excursion worth our time and effort.
3. Enjoy the ferry ride.
The only way to reach the island fortress is by boat. It’s a 15-minute ferry ride from Helsinki’s Market Square. Maybe because it was winter, but there was plenty of space in the ferry. We braved the cold and stepped out in the open area to soak in the sights.
And what a sight to behold! You can see the beautiful skyline of Helsinki, and you get to be more up close to the docked cruise ships and passing shipping liners. And of course, you get all giddy as you approach Suomenlinna. Your kids will enjoy it. The trip back is just as exciting.
4. Take loads of photos.
Suomenlinna is very photogenic, possibly more so in winter where’s a bit of a sense of doom and gloom (thanks to the bitter cold and cloudy skies), befitting the former military garrison and a prison. And with very few tourists, it almost feels deserted like a ghost town. And I mean that in a good way.
There are plenty of photo opportunities if you want to add a little dramatic flair and an element of mystery to your pictures. There are tunnels, bridges, leafless tall trees that look like spider webs, cobblestone streets, garrisons, brick buildings, stone walls, and hidden passageways. It’s very cinematic, like you’re in a Stephen King novel or a Christopher Nolan film.
Yet, at the same time, you’ll also find lots of color that make a whimsical backdrop for your photos of your kids. There’s the pinkish barracks as well as the muted pastel colored wooden houses scattered throughout the island.
Yes, you and your kids will have fun posing in Suomenlinna.
5. Immerse yourself in the surroundings.
Suomenlinna is not just a popular tourist attraction. It’s actually home to 800 locals and a workplace for 400 Finns. You’ll get to see some of them bringing back groceries or biking to work.
It is a town by itself, with a library, a church, offices, cafes, restaurants, shops, parks, and a school. There’s a playground beside the school where your kids can play.
Suomenlinna With Kids: The Verdict
So should you bring your kids to Suomenlinna? You know what? Even without kiddie attractions and kiddie rides, our daughter enjoyed her visit to Suomenlinna.
On paper, it does sound boring to just walk around a sea fortress and take pictures. But I guess Suomenlinna itself created a sense of adventure and perhaps opened up our child’s imagination.
Would we have spent more than half a day exploring the entire island? Possibly, if it weren’t so cold. I can imagine summer would be a great time to have a picnic in the island. But then, I can also imagine the throngs of tourists.
But just being on Suomenlinna during winter for a couple of hours, taking in the eerie mystery and dramatic landscape is enough to conjure images of an Edgar Allan Poe story or Alfred Hitchcock movie (if you’re an adult) or a Lemony Snicket book or a Neil Gaiman graphic novel (if you’re a kid).
Okay, now I’m being dramatic!
